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A word about the tableware: poaching the dainty pink bowls and tie dye plates is still not the done thing, despite the tug of temptation. Tuscan pastas duck tagliatelle, rabbit ravioli and spaghetti alla chitarra spirals (15 euro) paraded past our walnut wood table but, craving lightness, the grilled salmon (24 euro) and roasted sea bream (21 euro) reeled us in. Sublimely prepared, neither overcooked nor raw, the salmon sits straightforwardly beside earthy beetroot, a nicely seasoned salad and the occasional pickled onion, whereas cauliflower, pureed and roasted, accompanied the fresh and fleshy bream..

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